VINTAGE DENISEBRAIN

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 5

2012-02-15T07:45:00.000-08:00

How to wear vintage

For the past month and a half I've been writing about wearing vintage for the novice, including details of fit, quality and value. These are big subjects, and I think it's time to have a little fun with the subject of how to wear vintage. Do you wear head-to-toe 1960s Mod? Or do you wear just a 50s sweater with otherwise modern clothes?

This is really up to you, and both can look great. I often see dos and don'ts columns where the head-to-toe approach is treated as a big mistake. All I can say is, if you want to dress like Audrey Hepburn in Sabrina from top to bottom, you have my respect and admiration. Do what makes you look and feel good.

The other basic approach does appear to be favored, from a survey of 50 vintage wearers that I recently conducted. 80% responded that they mainly wear a piece or two of vintage mixed in with more modern clothing, 14% wear head-to-toe vintage of mixed eras, and 6% said they wear head-to-toe vintage, as much as possible all from a single era at one time.

62% of the respondents like dresses the best, with strong showings for jewelry, coats, bags and sweaters. I love dresses most of all too, but if you like vintage jeans, kimonos or 50s novelty print skirts best (as did three respondents), great! Vintage really frees people to create looks all their own, with their favorite components. My first blog in this series suggested wearing a vintage brooch as a vintage starter piece. If all you ever wear over 25 years old are brooches, fine!

Personally? I usually wear 1-2 vintage items every day

Next time: Some vintage-wearing inspiration

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 4 continued

2012-02-13T07:57:00.000-08:00

More on vintage value

Louise wrote about what she most likes about vintage clothing in a comment on a previous post: “You are not supporting sweatshops. No new materials are being consumed. And most vintage clothing sellers are small businesses—you are supporting an individual rather than a multinational corporation.” For her, the greatest value in vintage clothing is in its impact on the world, economically and environmentally. I have talked with others who are most attentive to the fine construction of the vintage they collect. Some time ago I did a graphic showing off my own favorite aspects:

{Click to enlarge}

You may have noticed by now that I haven't said that a 1950s dress should cost X amount. I don't think there will ever be a point at which I would be able to say that a certain vintage piece should cost a certain amount. Dealers set prices that are based on the availability of the items for them, the work they need to put into finding the items and preparing them for sale. They research the going rates. There are dealers that also have a certain right to say that with their knowledge and experience they can offer items of a certain caliber for a certain amount.

You may be fortunate to find some great items on your own or from beginning sellers, and if so, more power to you. By contrast, I have a friend in a big city nearby that says that she hasn't seen an item older than the 70s for some time, looking in 2nd-hand shops, garage and estate sales. The 40s and 50s that I love so dearly aren't to be found in some areas. If you are interested in 20s and 30s, believe me, the pickings are rare no matter where you are. Rarity does indeed increase value.

And great vintage sellers, the kind that are knowledgeable, passionate, resourceful, careful, honest and dependable, are a bit rare too. If you find you like and trust certain sellers, you may wish to visit them more than once. As Louise wrote, these are small business owners who will appreciate your support.

Next time: Thoughts on how to wear vintage

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 4 continued

2012-02-10T07:58:00.000-08:00

More about quality and value

In vintage, quality is often in the details. Better fabrics, lining and better-grade components such as buttons and trims add to the quality of items. Quality can also be in the design, which sometimes means better brand labels, and designer labels. Sometimes no-label or lesser-known labels are designed and made very well, so don't let the labels mean everything to you. Also, some designers sold their names for use in lower quality items, so a designer's name isn't everything either.

Right now there are some healthy prices being paid for lesser-made items from the 70s, 80s and 90s. There is a gradual change from better to lesser quality that has taken place from the late 1960s through today. Many labels (designers, makers) have transcended this in these decades, but the trend has been toward more disposable, briefly fashionable styles. The more you know about clothing details and manufacture, the less likely you will be to pay an exorbitant rate for something that is in actual quality, lower end. You may gain the power to find these relatively common items yourself at thrift stores and garage sales, and you may not need to see the item styled for you to get how it could look. I don't mean to say these items are not worth anything (especially if they make your heart sing) but it is best to arm yourself with the knowledge of their true value. If you still want to pay a top price, you will at least know what you're doing!

Condition is also a part of value. I recommend beginning vintage buyers be aware of the condition component in purchasing vintage. A great item in very flawed condition is of lesser value, possibly lower than a relatively lower quality item in excellent condition. The more you know, the more you will be able to assess this.

Value may also be judged in terms of how long a garment has been around, and how long it may continue to be around. Our parents, grandparents and great-grandparents did not live with disposable items the way we do now, clothing included. Purchases were made carefully, alterations were done, care was taken, mends were made, and quite a bit of wear was expected. If you find a vintage clothing item you love, consider grabbing the baton, wearing the item with the same care and thought that was used 30, 60 and 90 years ago. If you do, you may pass the item on for further use in 30 years!

This 1884 wedding dress has been worn by family members ever since...talk about longevity! (The story is at MailOnline)

Next: More on value

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 4 continued

2012-02-08T08:30:00.000-08:00

Getting started with vintage quality and value

After my post on alterations you may be thinking that you are looking at a huge expense just to have one great vintage dress. You have to pay for the dress, possibly have to pay to have it cleaned and altered. I've been writing a lot about fit. This post is about value and quality, two more of the handful of Really Big Issues to consider when shopping for vintage clothing.

First, know that if you are used to purchasing an item of clothing in the $25-250 range (more or less average modern clothing from budget-conscious to relatively costly), know that the 1940 equivalent would be $402-$4,017 according to the Consumer Price Index inflation calculator, in 1970 that range would be $145.00-$1,449.

1938 catalogue prices (and style!) from the Chronically Vintage blog. That $4.98, adjusted for inflation, would be $79.45 today

If you see prices in vintage catalogues, on vintage price tags, etc. that make you think the items were inexpensive in their day, remember this.

Next, understand that when you buy a vintage piece you pay for something that is usually better than you are paying for today. As a vintage clothing dealer I can vouch for the superior quality of most vintage items—I find it hard to buy modern items in large part because of their lack of quality.

In the 1950s, most of what was available to wear in the US was made in the US, from the raw materials, to the textile, to the design and finally to the finished product. Union tags will let you know that fairly-paid garment workers made the item.

The ILGWU, once one of largest labor unions in the United States, was one of the first U.S. unions to have primarily female membership (from Rex Parker Does the NY Times Crossword Puzzle)

By comparison: Green America's Retailer Scorecard gives Wal-Mart an F, J.C. Penney a D-, and Target a D+ for their use of sweatshops and forced child labor. In choosing a vintage article you not only recycle it for current use, but you can be fairly confident that it was made with better values in its day.

Elizabeth Cline's The History of a Cheap Dress should give even the most inveterate H&M shopper pause. I lament, as does Cline in fascinating detail, the trading of quality for quantity.

{to be continued}

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 4 continued

2012-02-06T08:00:00.000-08:00

Altered reality

Most people now purchase new clothing without an exacting fit—the one exceptional time might be around a wedding, when there is a scramble to find an alterations expert. In our parents’ and grandparents’ times, alterations were done routinely, almost nothing was a perfect fit right off the rack. One might have the skills herself, or have a relative or friend to do the work, otherwise it was off to the seamstress or tailor, with whom one might develop a strong bond. She would know what worked best for her individual clients and make astute suggestions.

Since vintage clothing is often more fitted than modern clothing, the alterations expert is still absolutely an invaluable resource...and more than just for weddings!

My colleagues at the Vintage Fashion Guild unanimously agreed that altering vintage clothing for personal wear is fine, so long as it doesn't change the integrity of the original design permanently. Keep in mind, probably 20%+ of vintage clothing has been altered, most likely to fit the original owner.

A few caveats: 1. If possible, leave all the extra fabric inseams and hem in an alteration so that the piece can be altered back again. 2. The fewer changes you need made, the less expensive will be the alteration, so if economy is important to you, choose something that just needs one or maybe two changes. 3. A terribly rare or extremely valuable item is probably best to preserve as it is. 4. It is easier (and usually less expensive) to make something a bit smaller than a bit larger.

Another thing that the alterations person can do is mend and fix if needed. A new zipper, a torn buttonhole, a hem restored...if these are not skills you possess, you need to find a seamstress.

How do you find a skilled seamstress? What should she cost?

These are hard questions to answer in any concrete way, because your town may differ from Paris or New York or Charlotte or Fargo. If you have any vintage clothing shops in your area you might try asking if they have any recommendations (some even have alterations people who come in regularly). If you know anyone who wears vintage, ask if she has a recommendation. If you have a trusted dry cleaner, inquire there. Look on your local craigslist, in your phone book, online. Ask on Facebook or Twitter. When you have someone in mind, take a test item, one that you wouldn't cry if you lost. If it comes out great, and you liked the seamstress, feel safe taking more items. I especially appreciate a seamstress who loves and respects vintage clothing. So often they do, because they are interested in the fine points of clothing construction.

Next: Value and quality

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 4

2012-02-03T08:00:00.000-08:00

What our mothers and grandmothers knew about getting a better fit

We are now on to more advanced aspects of fit. Fitted women’s clothing of the past has distinct shaping that sometimes seems unlike the human form. If you've ever encountered an impossibly small waist on a dress, or impossibly high darts, you might have wondered what sort of person could wear these?

Your mother and grandmother might have worn these, with the help of the arsenal of foundation garments that aided the in-vogue silhouette of the era.

1935 lingerie advertisement—You can see how this shaping could help achieve the long lean look of the 30s (Courtesy of Vintage Venus)

Jody of Couture Allure Vintage Blog did a wonderful job of exemplifying the fit of items from 1950, and the underpinnings that were integral to the look at the time, in her blog post Foundation Garments to Make Your Vintage Dresses Fit Correctly. Vintage foundations are really different from most of the shapewear that we see today; the control and shaping is much more powerful, particularly in the decades around the mid 20th century, and of course the Victorian and Edwardian eras. If you are able to find elasticized vintage foundations that are unused, they are more likely to still have their flexibility and stretch, particularly if they are 1950s and newer. Jody followed up on her blog with a post listing modern makers of vintage-style foundations. This post, and the comments after, offer quite a bit of helpful guidance.

On a personal note: I do not wear vintage undergarments (other than slips) except on special occasions and for special-fit items. I favor clothing that doesn't demand an extreme fit, I prefer the freedom without this fit. One of the reasons I'm fond of early to mid-40s clothing is that it is a more natural silhouette, one that tends to fit me. Others swear by vintage foundation wear for how it makes their clothes fit, how it makes their clothes look, and for how it makes them feel. I think this is a personal decision. I don't consider it wrong to skip the vintage under layer, but it is important to understand how it impacted fit and how you might be able to wear something you love with just a bit of undercover help.

Obviously glamour is one of vintage lingerie's greatest charms, as this fun little video demonstrates:

For more on fashionable silhouettes and how they were achieved, see the Met Museum article Twentieth-Century Silhouette and Support

Next: Alterations to achieve a better fit

Love at first sight

2012-02-01T07:54:00.000-08:00

Time out from writing about vintage clothing for first time wearers. My latest theme is up, and I think all vintage wearers know this first: Love at First Sight

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3 continued

2012-01-30T17:00:00.000-08:00

Vintage shoes have sole

I am a great devotee of vintage shoes, but I know there are caveats. I have rarely had a pair of vintage shoes from prior to the 1960s that I dared wear regularly because age takes a greater toll on an item that handles your weight and activity so tangibly.

I have a collection of vintage shoes in size 9-9 1/2. My modern US size is 9, and vintage shoes in this relatively larger size are not very common, so I keep many that I find. You will find vintage shoes in my size and in longer sizes, so don't despair even if you wear a size 10 or 11.

Some of my vintage shoes, all size 9 or 9 1/2

I recently came across a great post by April of VintageVixen on the sizing, quality and maintenance of vintage shoes. As she writes, “vintage shoes are an unbeatable value when condition matches quality,” and she goes on to remind that style is a big reason for choosing vintage shoes. After recently shopping for a walkable yet stylish new shoe with a 1"-2" heel, I can wholeheartedly agree; all I saw were flats and towering heels. With vintage you have choices!

April describes how vintage shoes are sized more-or-less as modern shoes. She writes about how to compare your shoe size to a vintage shoe that you covet, how to read the more detailed widths, and finally, how to care for vintage shoes. April is thorough, so please read her advice if you have been troubled with vintage shoe woes, or are just starting to consider vintage shoes.

All these vintage shoes would fit my size 9B feet...race you to them!

40s spectators from FemaleHysteria, 50s-60s stilettos from Mags Rags, 60s mod silver shoes by Herbert Levine from greygardensboutique, 60s-70s lace-up boots from stellahsgroove, 60s pilgrim buckle shoes from voguevintage, 60s stilettos from Tangerine Boutique, 60s spectator oxfords from elclinto1

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3 continued

2012-01-27T15:00:00.000-08:00

Let vintage hats go to your head

I'll say it right now: I have a big head. I didn't think I could even wear hats because I had the experience of some not fitting, then I discovered that there are many styles of vintage hats that have a fit that works for many, and styles galore to choose from. My personal favorites are from the first half of the 40s, when all the pent-up whimsy and fashionability that couldn't be budgeted and rationed into clothing choices during WWII could go to a girl's head. If the hats are green, even better.

The actress Gene Tierney, photographed by John Rawlings

For those of you who think sure, that's fine for you, but I can't wear a hat, let alone a vintage hat, let me tell you a true story: A friend of mine (not a vintage wearer) found a vintage hat that she loved. It wasn't over-the-top, just a nice, simple navy blue felt hat with a small brim from the mid to late 40s. My friend took a bus to work daily, and her commute involved crossing a busy street to get to the bus stop. The day she started wearing her vintage hat, cars stopped for her to cross, people commented on how well she looked...and she felt well! Don't underestimate your ability to wear a vintage hat and make it your own.

Gene Tierney photographed by Rawlings again, with a hat not unlike my friend's

Photos sourced from http://www.ljpoisk.ru/archive/4198675.html

Like some more inspiration? Have a look at Already Pretty's blogpost on Flattering Hats for Every Head. Even though the information refers mainly to new hats, there is sage advice to be read.

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3 continued

2012-01-25T14:53:00.000-08:00

See yourself in vintage glasses

I promised more on fit for this post, but being on the road, I'm going to take a detour to several pretty easy vintage wardrobe items to consider.

First, one of my personal favorites for adding great flair to a modern wardrobe is a pair of vintage sunglasses, or if you are ready to go further, regular glasses. I personally wear nothing but vintage frames. Look how fabulous these 40s sunglasses look on Tia:

Casey told me "I don't know if I could go back to normal glasses...They are a great start up item. I had lots of occasion items, but the glasses were the first step into daily wear."

Glasses are not without fit issues, so it is important to get some measurements here too. The Fifties Frames website has very helpful sizing information (and make sure you look at their great range of vintage frames, all with measurements clearly listed).

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3 continued

2012-01-23T07:50:00.000-08:00

Waist length, and your particular fit issues

Even though my last post covered tips for allowing ease in vintage clothing without stretch, there are still more points to be made. If you've ever tried on a vintage dress that ought to fit your waist judging by the stated measurements, but it was too tight, you have probably experienced a length problem. Remember how I wrote that back waist length would be important? For a fitted (not intentionally bloused or full) bodice, having your back waist length coincide well with the dress is vital.

This 80s shirt dress from Big Yellow Taxi Vintage features blousing that could add to the back waist length.

I recently saw a vintage size chart that declared 5'6" tall, and since so many of us are now taller, lengths can be a factor.

Melody of Tangerine Boutique suggests that you take into account whatever fit issues you have with modern clothing, and pay close attention to the corresponding measurement in vintage clothing. I have slightly broad shoulders and, from years of playing the horn, I have a relatively wide rib cage. You can be sure I ask for the under-bust measurement of any really fitted dress!

60s cheongsam or qi pao, a style of dress with fit galore. Notice that Viva Vintage Clothing rightfully gives lots and lots of measurements!

Next: Alterations, foundations and other ways to achieve a more
ideal fit

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3 continued

2012-01-20T09:20:00.000-08:00

Understanding vintage sizes, ease to allow for a good fit

A further word about vintage sizes. Sometimes you see an item with a size and believe this must have something to do with your current size. Vintage sizes do not coincide with modern sizes. Nor are they predictable as compared with other items from the same era. In her study of advertisements in Vogue magazine from 1922-99, Alaina Zulli found a great deal of irregularity, with a generally decreasing size number through the decades, due to so-called vanity sizing.

As summarized in the New York Times (“One Size Fits Nobody: Seeking a Steady 4 or a 10”):

A woman with a 32-inch bust would have worn a Size 14 in Sears’s 1937 catalog. By 1967, she would have worn an 8, Ms. Zulli found. Today, she would wear a zero.

Again, fit is all about measurements, not stated sizes.

Now that you have some knowledge of your measurements and sizing, are you eager to find that perfect Mad Men dress, something fitted from the 50s to early 60s? I'm eager to help you!

50s sheath dress from Personal Pursuits

A 1950s to early 60s dress is almost always designed to highlight an hourglass shape, with a relatively fitted waist, and a waist seam that doesn't usually have any stretch. With all vintage clothing you need to focus on the measurement that is the most fitted, and in this era, that measurement would most likely be the waist.

You now know your waist measure, and what you need to be able to enjoy yourself in your vintage dress is a little extra space.

I asked my colleagues at the Vintage Fashion Guild what they would recommend in the way of extra space. Nicole of Circa Vintage Clothing recommended allowing 1"-2" extra at the waist, smaller on the smaller end of sizes, larger on the larger end. Anne of Vintage Baubles recommends that since one moves more through the hips—walking, sitting, bending, etc.—you would want more room there. She sent me to this fantastic ease chart.

Amber of The Vintage Vortex made a great point: “I think if I were wearing a much older item than 1950s I would want more ease for myself as thread and fabric deterioration would be a factor...I think that the age of the garment should also play a part in determining ease.” Jody of Couture Allure Vintage Fashion added that fabrics are a factor in ease; taffetas, satins, and loosely woven fabrics are challenging because if a dress is too tight, the seams will get stressed and there will be pulling along vertical seams. I plan to discuss fabric and how it matters in your choices in more detail later.

Remember the style of the item makes a difference in fit. What if the dress is fitted and strapless? Hollis of Past Perfect Vintage cautions that if such a dress is not tight, it won't stay up! I believe that we can tolerate a closer fit for a more formal (and briefer!) engagement.

50s formal from Vintage Devotion

Although I've been talking about purchasing a classic fitted sheath dress, every era has a variety of styles and fits, and the ease will vary with the cut of the garment, and, as my colleagues pointed out, its age and fabric.

Looking online you may notice that you end up spotting the waist measure you want, and the bust and hip measures look too big. Still, no matter what era of clothing you fancy, you have to start with the measurement that is tightest, and then...go to the next stage!

Next: Waist length, and your particular fit issues

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 3

2012-01-18T15:00:00.000-08:00

More about fit

There is no standard that vintage sellers collectively use to describe sizes, but let's be fair, there is no precise standard for modern clothing either!

I have tried to at least codify my own size estimates, as you can see by looking at a previous blog post Women's vintage clothing: determining size. Other sellers have done the same. However, even in my listings I would recommend that if you see size 6 or XL, do not assume it is the same as your idea of size 6 or XL. Go straight for the measurements and compare those to your own.

Many sellers, including me, suggest that you compare the measurements of an item you're interested in with something similar of your own that fits you well. This is great if you indeed have something similar in key ways, for instance non-stretchy if the item you want is woven not knit, and fitted in the same ways. I will later make suggestions about how to choose items even if you have nothing similar.

When should you ask for further help from a seller? By all means ask if there are no/not enough measurements or the condition is either not listed or described. If a seller offers almost nothing they may either be beginners or just not very skillful sellers.

One characteristic of a good seller is that they offer most or all of the information you need to make an informed decision in the listing. Most good sellers will be happy to guide you if you need further help with the size or some other aspect. Just remember, don't ask if that 1950s dress is a size 6...ask about the item's measurements.

Now that you've taken a look at knits, you are ready to delve into woven items, items without much or any stretch. Here fit is so important.

A great beginner's vintage item is a flaring coat or jacket. These are chic, stylish items dating most often from the 40s-60s, and working for a range of sizes, even sometimes maternity. The most fitted dimension may often be the shoulder width. Think of them as just one step more fitted than a cape, which you can see also makes a great vintage choice.

50s pink satin swing coat at violetvillevintage, 60s tartan cape coat at gogovintage, 60s navy cape coat at alexsandras, 40s-50s red swing jacket at badgirlvintage, 50s black swing coat in my own shop

Next time: Still more about fit!

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 2 continued

2012-01-16T15:00:00.000-08:00

Finding a vintage sweater

Now that you have your measurements, you are ready to choose vintage clothing that works well for you, and you are practically guaranteed success with a vintage sweater.

There are many styles of sweaters, from chunky knits to fitted Sweater Girl styles, cardigans, short sleeves and sleeveless, beaded, embroidered, hand knit and major vintage designer labels.

Hand knit from PenelopeMeatloaf, beaded knit tank from sabrosavintage, beaded cardigan from ticklepink, pink cashmere cardigan from LunaParkVintage. Photo on right from belle de couture on teenvogue.com.

What do you like in a modern sweater, something you could wear skiing, a simple basic or something a bit flashy? If you're looking for something warm and thick, try searching for vintage sweaters using keywords like Nordic, Irish, ski, Icelandic and cable knit. Sweater Girl sweaters are fitted, usually 1950s to 60s in vintage, and often waist length. Look for soft lambswool blends and cashmere, beads and sequins for something even dressier.

When it comes to basics, I love vintage cashmere sweaters. They beat most modern cashmere knits in the quality to price ratio by quite a lot. Cashmere is light, soft and warm, not likely to irritate the skin of any but a tiny fraction of the most sensitive wearers. It comes in a wide range of styles and colors, and it is a practical luxury.

This 70s vintage Scottish-made cashmere sweater from bigyellowtaxivintage is almost guaranteed to lower your heating bill!

Knits have various appropriate fits. If you like a Sweater Girl fitted fit, look for a sweater with a bust measure about the same as your own. Very often the hem of a sweater is ribbed, and the ribbing stretches more than would a plain stitch, as well as being sturdier. What that means is that you don't need to be afraid if a ribbed hem measures smaller than that place (waist or hip) on you.

If what you are after is a thick, chunky knit, you may want it to be larger than you at the bust. I would allow 1"-2" of ease.

Look carefully at the condition of vintage sweaters. Holes can be mended, but when just starting out with vintage, look for a sweater in excellent shape, clean and either hole-free or with just one or two tiny mended holes in inconspicuous places.

I often mention in my listings that I wash vintage sweaters in Eucalan. This is an eco-friendly wash for hand washable items, and I find it particularly great for sweaters. You do not need to rinse it out, and it contains lanolin, which is often stripped from natural fiber sweaters in washing. I believe in this product so much that I am including a sample with any washable sweater purchased from me.

Next time: More about fit, and another great vintage starter item

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 2

2012-01-14T15:00:00.000-08:00

Getting started with vintage fit

I've already mentioned condition when purchasing vintage clothing, and another one of the handful of Really Big Issues in making your selection is fit.

Vintage clothing online is almost always sold with the item's measurements listed. That means you have to know your measurements and know how to choose what will fit you comfortably.

Let's start with measurements. Dorothea's Closet Vintage shows most every pertinent measurement a seller might list for vintage garments. The only time you might see more measurements are in the cases of pants or swimsuits. (I'm leaving shoes and other fitted accessories for another post):

Leigh Ann of Freckled Nest posted about measuring yourself for vintage. I strongly urge you to follow her suggestions, including wearing your bra. I also would add that getting a friend to measure helps with accuracy, and is imperative for getting accurate length measurements, and your shoulder width. Leigh Ann doesn't stress lengths, but your waist length (base of neck or shoulder to waist, measured in back) will eventually be very important in choosing vintage.

Allow me to digress a moment here. You can be any size and look great, you just have to be honest about the size you really are. As Leigh Ann wrote about measuring your waist: Don't suck in or you'll have to live that way and you'll turn into a fish. Be honest because the result will be you looking good. If you lose that weight you've been meaning to lose or whittle your waist with exercise you can find a new vintage item. Now is now. There are vintage foundation garments that can change your size somewhat, but that is more advanced material. We are starting out slowly.

Of course, if you are lucky enough to have a vintage clothing store in your town, you can try things on for size. Still, it helps greatly to know your measurements to begin with.

Now, what vintage garment are you going to look for first, remembering we are taking this in stages?

My suggestion is a sweater, because 1. a sweater's fit is flexible and 2. vintage sweaters are the best!

Next: Choosing a vintage sweater

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 1 continued

2012-01-12T14:15:00.000-08:00

Some more good first vintage choices, and a reader suggestion

Have you found your vintage brooch? As I described in my last blog, a vintage brooch, or vintage evening bag, may be just the item to get your vintage wardrobe started.

Of course, other items without fit issues are great starters too. If you like scarves, hooray for you, because there are many gorgeous vintage scarves to be found.

Just a few of the variety of vintage scarves to be found at Northstar Vintage on Etsy

I'm sure you can think of other vintage items without fit concerns, such as capes, umbrellas and earrings. These all make good first steps in the land of vintage.

In a comment on my first blog in this series, Pam wrote

...if there's a piece a loved one has (or had) that has some sort of sentimental value, wearing that piece might be a great, heart-centered way to begin. It's a tangible way to time travel that has personal meaning.

That is such a great point, and so often there is a brooch, necklace or other item still in the family from times gone by.

Angela Neustatter (mailonline) wrote about keeping the memory of her mother alive by wearing her clothes and accessories, including this brooch

Next time: Get out your measuring tape!

New Year's resolution: Wear vintage, stage 1

2012-01-10T11:53:00.000-08:00

Great first vintage items, a little about condition

I have been wearing vintage clothing a long time now, but I realize many people are new to it. You keep hearing about vintage styles, you see it in television shows, on Hollywood stars, and even the First Lady. It's a New Year's resolution to start wearing vintage. How do you get started?

I recommend choosing something that has no fit issues, such as a vintage brooch. What sort is up to you and your style. Go spare and refined or go over-the-top gaudy; Deco rhinestones or plastic; your initials or your favorite dog. Try browsing on Etsy, in the vintage category.

Mod blue/green flower at linea72, Lucite Y at decotodiscovintage, rhinestone poodle at mimisvintageshop, Art Deco at ThePrancingFox, bakelite cherries at cherylkumiskiglass, all Etsy shops. Photo on right, J. Crew

Another good choice for a starting piece is a vintage bag. Although a huge array can be found, generally bags over 20 years old were not as large as they are now. Even if a large tote is not as common to find, there are lots of choices in evening bags. This 60s beaded clutch is on sale at TravelingCarousel:

For a beginning vintage buyer I'd recommend buying items that are in excellent condition, which generally is the top condition other than unused or mint, which is quite rare. If something is listed as excellent, there should be no real flaws, or flaws that are so small that they don't call attention. You need to look carefully at the condition, including details about flaws. Also, look at the seller's feedback and reputation.

As a member of the Vintage Fashion Guild I can vouch for the members' reputations; although you don't have to be a member of the VFG to be an excellent, reputable vintage seller, I believe you won't go wrong with a VFG member.

{to be continued}

New Year, New Theme-o-matic!

2012-01-07T20:43:00.000-08:00

It's once again time for a roundup of my past year's themes (including a couple of my faves, Honk and Pictures), and you can see most of them here:

If you are avid, there are the previous theme-o-matics, found here

here

and here

We did it!

2012-01-02T08:00:00.000-08:00

Thanks to your purchases in December, I am now able to make a donation of $525.50 to Conservation Northwest!

I've said it before and I'll say it again...
Denisebrain has the grrrreatest customers!

You wanna start something?

2012-01-01T10:00:00.000-08:00

It's a New Year, and I'm getting it started from the ground up! Click on image, sound up, for my latest theme.

My best vintage 2011

2011-12-31T10:36:00.000-08:00

As always, I am rounding up my favorite vintage listed in the past year, and here they are. A small group of these are still for sale, but even if your favorites are sold, please remember that there is more to come...as a matter of fact I believe the best is yet to come!

{click on the images for a larger view}

I was very pleased to find Lilli Ann labels in vintage clothing, 40s-60s

I love vintage party dresses in black

...and in color

When Elizabeth Taylor died in March, I focused on clothing to compliment her beautiful violet eyes

In April I had the great pleasure of meeting Alfred Shaheen's daughter, Camille Shaheen-Tunberg and her husband the artist and sculptor Bill Tunberg, the occasion being a Shaheen exhibit at Washington State University

I'm always ecstatic to find a Shaheen (below left), and there is a wonderful world of vintage Hawaiiana beyond

In April the Royal Wedding made me excited about vintage wedding possibilities

I'm always giddy about vintage polka dots from all eras

I'm also crazy about vintage hats with great character

Then there are the bags of character

In June and July I explored late 30s clothing in my blog, and I was fortunate to find a number of 30s items to sell

I am a perpetual fan of great suits, whether with fine labels (Don Loper, Irene, Kimberly)

...or unlabeled but with distinctive style

If you know me, you know that I appreciate a conversation-starting print

I continue to love the photos from my buyers of themselves in their purchases (let me know if you have one, and I will add your photo to my gallery on Facebook!)

I've always got something chic and black for your vintage cocktail hour

And outerwear? I've got you covered!

In March this 40s cherry tree-print dress helped raise money for Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund - a GlobalGiving Project, the Art Deco bracelet for Save the Manatee Club in June

In August, this beaded Don Loper jacket helped raise funds for World Food Program USA for famine relief in the horn of Africa; the hand-embroidered Mexican skirt is part of my effort to help Conservation Northwest this month.

All in all, I've been able to donate over $1500 this year. Without a doubt, if it weren't for my faithful buyers, I wouldn't be able to do what I do.

Thank you and blessings to you all. I look forward to seeing you in 2012!

P.S. Ten of these items are still for sale...please check my stores at denisebrain.com

Wait, where are you going?

2011-12-28T17:53:00.000-08:00

Gary Pollock photo

There are a few days left in December...a few days more for your purchases from denisebrain.com to benefit Conservation Northwest. So stick around, the finish is going to be great!

Don't give up now!

2011-12-22T13:02:00.001-08:00

Carol Bock photo

This is no time to rest!

I'm very excited to report that I may be able to surpass my 2010 donation to Conservation Northwest! Don't forget that any purchase from my online shops helps this great organization.

One possibility is this newly-listed 1950s Mexican circle skirt, hand embroidered with animals:

...another is this Vested Gentress-label 1960s corduroy dress with leopard print:

I am so grateful to all of you who have purchased from me so far this month, and especially those who purchased because you know 25% of your purchase is going to Conservation Northwest. Without you, I couldn't do this.

See you at denisebrain.com!

Have you had a look yet?

2011-12-14T18:23:00.000-08:00

Northern spotted owls, photo by Jim Thraikill/USFWS

This month 25% of my earnings go to Conservation Northwest, so it's a fine time to:

1. Help a great cause

2. Find some great vintage clothing and accessories

3. Be part of the recycling loop by purchasing something used instead of new

May I tempt you?

How about this woodland wildlife print 70s shirt?

...or a pewter-y owl necklace?

...or this African hand screen printed tunic?

If owl prints and jewelry are not your thing, many other items are to be found in my Etsy shop, web store, eBay and Material Girl Bags on Etsy.

Many thanks to Barbara Christensen of Conservation Northwest for highlighting my promotion in the CNW blog (Vintage gal helps grizzly). Barbara is so cool about promoting members' efforts for the cause!

Although it’s been said many times, many ways

2011-12-02T11:00:00.000-08:00

Click the image to see my December theme and little Christmas card to all.

Bear with me

2011-12-01T22:49:00.000-08:00

photo by Joe Sebille

Last October, Joe Sebille was hiking in the North Cascades, and shot some cell phone photos of a bear. The next May he opened his cell phone to ask a park ranger what he thought of the pictures, and from there the news spread that this photograph is of a grizzly bear, the first confirmed photo in that region in 50 years.

The North Cascades grizzly population has been perilously endangered for decades, so the sighting of this bear gives hope to those of us who care about this animal and the environment it needs to survive.

Why does the grizzly matter so much? According to the CNW website, “grizzly bears are a strong surrogate for the conservation of the dozens of other plants and animals that make our region biologically and culturally diverse and vibrant. Protecting the habitats that allow the bear the freedom to roam and thrive will benefit mule deer, wolverines, elk and mountain goats, and many more wildlife. Protecting the roadless watersheds that nurture the grizzly bear also helps ensure clean water, solitude, and recreational opportunities for everyone.”

And it gets personal for me. From my earliest memory I have loved bears and all they stand for. Inevitably I was given and loved teddy bears as a child, but an older relative recalled that when asked as a little girl whether I cared more for teddy bears or real bears, I said real bears of course.

Little me and my brother; I had a bear with me as always

I still care most about real bears

Which brings me to this: For the past several years I have devoted a portion of my December earnings to Conservation Northwest, which has advocated not only for the grizzly, but for all wildlife and ecosystems in the region. All year I follow the work of this organization with awe.

Conservation Northwest gives me hope for the grizzly, and so much more. Once again this December I'm devoting 25% of the proceeds from all the shops at denisebrain.com to this great group.

Conservation Northwest

Bear experts confirm North Cascades bear was grizzly, Spokesman-Review, 7/1/11

The 1956 "Miracle Brim" Hoodcharmer

2011-11-30T16:59:00.000-08:00

A 1950s Hoodcharmer, currently available on Etsy

I love the people who keep their vintage items with all original information. This hat would have been a bit hard to figure out without the accompanying pictures and instructions. Once I figured it out, I had too much fun with this neat invention, which dates from some time after 1956, as I found by looking up its patent numbers.

The illustration from US patent number 178,833

Made by Jane Richard (the patent belongs to Irene Greene) and called the "Magic Brim" Hoodcharmer, the simplest way to wear the soft knit tube of wool/Orlon acrylic is as a hood. To get fancy, you slip the white wire through one end, then twist and shape to make a hat.

Very DIY...are you there Etsy crafters?

Feeding America update

2011-11-25T08:37:00.000-08:00

According to the Feeding America site, the contribution I was able to make yesterday will translate into 1172 meals for hungry Americans.

In honor of Thanksgiving

2011-11-22T18:26:00.000-08:00

On November 23 and 24 I am donating 25% of my sales from any of my shops to Feeding America. Until November 25, any donations to Feeding America will be matched dollar for dollar, and I'll be sure to get that 25% in by the deadline. We can't pass up the chance to make a difference for people in need. If you'd like to make a donation directly, go to feedingamerica.org

Holiday party frocks

2011-11-18T18:15:00.000-08:00

When you get that invitation, what will you wear?

I have a few vintage suggestions:

All these and more can be found in my web store and Etsy shop

Speaking of Ginger...

2011-11-10T13:04:00.000-08:00

...I have a dress that I believe she would have worn well, labeled Jean Carol.

I was already excited to see such a great example of 30s style (I mean, just look at this back!)

...but was overjoyed to know the history of the Jean Carol label. It was designed by Peggy Hunt, long a favorite for her dresses under her eponymous label. The Jean Carol label was used before she became well known by her own name. Peggy Hunt's daughter, Jeannette Alexander was also fine designer with her own label. Both labels are always attached to covetable dresses.

Read more about this family of designing women at fuzzylizzie.com (Peggy Hunt & Jeannette Alexander). Lizzie had the honor of hearing from Jacqui Hyland, the daughter of Jeannette Alexander and the granddaughter of Peggy Hunt.

The dress is currently available in my Etsy store.

More on the way you look tonight

2011-11-05T21:56:00.000-07:00

If you didn't already see it, my latest theme features a Jerome Kern song and Fred Astaire singing. I love the song, love Fred singing it, and built the theme around the nostalgic look of the anonymous but lovely faces that we come across while browsing in antique stores and estate sales. I love imagining who the women in the photos are.

The movie Swing Time shows Fred and Ginger in a sentimental but comical scene featuring the song.

I only wish I could look so beautiful in shampoo!

The way you look

2011-11-01T07:00:00.000-07:00

A nostalgic theme for November. Please click on the image to see, and hear...

Haunted dress story!

2011-10-28T08:00:00.000-07:00

In honor of Halloween, I must tell you about a dress I sold some years ago.

The dress that didn't want to leave my house

When I bought this beautiful blue-grey satin dress it had a small stain at the neckline, so I took it to the cleaners. I removed the four rhinestone buttons on the sleeves so they would not be damaged in cleaning. The dress came back without stain. I bought perfectly matching thread to sew the buttons back on then hung the dress up on a rack below an open staircase. A month later, while going up the stairs, I tripped and spilled my dinner a bit. Some salsa splashed on this dress. Very frustrated, I took the dress to be cleaned again, removing the buttons again. It came back perfectly clean, I sewed on the buttons.

Then, a month later, I went to sell the dress, and there was a stain at the neckline again, and I have not a clue as to how it got there. Extremely frustrated, I removed the buttons again. I waited about 6 months to take the dress to the cleaners again (being slightly freaked out by this) and it came back perfectly clean. Then I went to sew the buttons back on and could only find 3 of the 4. I searched high and low.

Finally, after several months, the fourth button turned up in an unlikely spot. I went to sew the buttons on, and the perfectly-matched thread was nowhere to be found. I found a pretty similar grey-ish thread and stitched the buttons on, but noticed that one of the rhinestones had fallen out that was previously in place.

I photographed the dress, and by now I was a bit on edge about this series of mishaps. I was excruciatingly careful with it every step of the way. When I uploaded the photos from my camera, the computer crashed, something that positively never happens. When I restarted, the photos were gone (again, this never happens!), so I took more, with even more excruciating care.

The dress sold, and I boxed it up. By now, I was talking to it soothingly, like, "it's okay, you are going to a good home, and you'll like it there." When I got to the post office, my delivery confirmation sticker would not scan! (I'm not making any of this up!) The postal worker put on a new sticker.

The woman who bought the dress truly loved it, and I hope the dress loved her too and didn't give her too much trouble!

Women's vintage clothing: determining size

2011-10-21T18:00:00.000-07:00

Fit is always a bit of a challenge when buying clothing—new or vintage—online. For help taking the mystery out of buying vintage clothing, I've developed some basic information.

Top tip: Check the measurements of the vintage garment you're interested in against something that fits you well and is of as similar a design as possible.

I give size estimates (always the letter size and sometimes US numerical sizes) and my estimates are based on an average of a handful of catalogs and websites...I hope these are good estimates to help pinpoint the fit. I have the experience of putting on a lot of vintage garments, and so I have a first-hand idea of how an item might fit. This is the chart I look at to predict sizes:

One thing's for sure, fashion has dictated different fits through the years. For instance, a 1950s dress generally has a small waist relative to the bust and hip measurements, as compared to many other decades.

I usually estimate the size based on the most fitted dimension. In many cases it is the waist, but often it is the hip, the bust, or even the shoulder width! It sometimes helps to be friends with a person who can do alterations.

A few details about my fit estimates:

I measure the garments flat, but don't just go from side to side. I try to take into account the contour, especially at the bust, which can make the measure larger than the side-to-side measurement.

With most regular-fit blouses I estimate the size based on the wearer being about 4" smaller at the bust than the blouse. This goes down a little toward smaller sizes, and up a little toward larger sizes.

With knits, I try to think how the item would look best worn. In some cases I really see stretching the knit as being "the look," in other cases I think the knit should flow more loosely.

With shoes, I lay the measuring tape flat on the insole of the shoe if at all possible. The length is toe to heel, the width is at the widest part of the ball of the foot. Remember this is the widest part on the insole, the leather or other material is wider at the center of the shoe.

With coats I try to envision how much might be worn underneath and often give a wider range of sizes, because so often coats are more free or loose in cut.

With pants and swimwear I give every possible measure I can think of, because I know these are the trickiest to fit accurately.

Always feel free to ask for further measurements, guidance regarding the size, or anything else!

(Modified from my nearly decade-old eBay About Me page.)

measure up brooch from modamuse

I'm-Running-Out-of-Space Coat Sale!

2011-10-12T20:40:00.000-07:00

Every so often I have too much of a good thing, and one of those times is now!

From today through October 16, take 20% off any coat in my Etsy shop and 25% off any coat in my web store.

I will refund the 20% or 25% of your purchase price paid. If you have any doubt as to whether the item would be considered a coat, please just ask me!

Some of my Etsy shop choices:

Some web store choices:

As you can see from this sampling, the choices are pretty diverse!

WWI Red Cross Uniform

2011-10-12T16:20:00.000-07:00

The patch on this uniform's apron says it all: A.R.C. Canteen Worker. To help in the war (WWI) effort, the American Red Cross had a civilian corps called the Canteen Service (1917-19).

The Red Cross provided food and snacks as well as leisure articles, to troops primarily when they were in transit at railroad stations and ports of embarkation and debarkation. By the end of the war, 55,000 canteen workers operated 700 canteens in the United States that served nearly 40 million refreshments. Overseas, the American Red Cross operated 130 canteens in France alone that served some 15 million American and Allied soldiers.

(Information courtesy of American Red Cross Museum.)

Apparently the women who worked for the Canteen service didn't just pass out sandwiches as fast as they could be made, some were even tasked with taking rolling canteens to the frontlines (from The Medical Front WWI).

I came upon this venerable set (now being auctioned) and don't know the name of the original owner I'm sorry to say. It isn't the most fancily constructed uniform; one can almost sense the urgency to get the outfit made. By contrast, the uniform has now been lovingly preserved, even with its War-era flaws, for nearly a century. It seems to have stories to tell.

Card found at CardCow.com

For more about the Canteen Service:

National World War I Museum at Liberty Memorial

Brooklyn Public Library Brooklynology blog

Slight vintage convergence

2011-10-08T20:12:00.000-07:00

An alert Flickr contact posted this great Jon Whitcomb artwork

Perhaps thinking I'd seen the artwork when I shot this...

See my other vintage convergences here and here.

All the leaves on the trees are falling...

2011-10-04T06:51:00.000-07:00

...to the sound of the breezes that blow

Please click on the image {sound up} to visit my October theme Moondance, then stop by denisebrain.com for fall vintage fashions, updated daily.

Get the Look: Emma Peel

2011-09-29T21:35:00.000-07:00

I think I may have seen one or two Avengers episodes as a child, and I remember how funny, bright and eccentric everything seemed. Fast forward to college when a fellow musician walked up to me and said I looked like Mrs. Peel. I stayed up to 2AM to see reruns of the show and loved it; I just had to know everything about Mrs. Peel and John Steed, my favorite of The Avengers.

Since then, even with a somewhat vague appearance connection, I like to think, act, speak and even dress like Emma Peel, at least some of the time...like when I need to foil some diabolical mastermind. She is my heroine extraordinaire.

Emma Peel's fashions evolved in her 1965-67 stint on the show, starting where Honor Blackman's Cathy Gale character had left off, with pretty but rather conventional 60s clothing, and a solid dose of black leather. Then came inventive styles by John Bates, and later Alun Hughes. Bates created haute mod black and white get-ups, and mini skirts before they had become mainstream. Later she was known for wearing Hughes' bright stretch knit (crimplene) "fighting suits," used for her highly accomplished martial arts and fencing scenes.

A few choices from the members of the Vintage Fashion Guild, where Mrs. Peel's style is the subject of this week's Fashion Parade:

60s gold legging boots from Poppy's Vintage Clothing, 60s mod wraparound sunglasses from The Spectrum, 60s red wool pants suit from Vintage Devotion, black and white striped mod mini from The Vintage Merchant (available this weekend)

Some items in my shops that seem good for both a karate kick and a glass of champagne:

Tan plaid pants suit by Howard Wolf, 60s Kimberly knit suit

Early 70s Blue and yellow knit athletic suit, Bonnie Cashin for Ballantyne cashmere sweater

60s purple houndstooth suit, Mod-look 80s knit dress

60s mini dress and jacket, 60s Mod wool dress

60s Lilli Ann coat & shift, 60s silver vinyl raincoat

Fall in Style at the Vintage Fashion Guild

2011-09-27T20:17:00.000-07:00

Vintage Inspiration is here, and the news is that vintage is more and more inspiring!

Once again this fall designers are inspired by vintage fashion including the dash of the 40s and the pop of the 60s. Runway trends of velvet and shades of wine red are great for style seekers with a love for authentic vintage.

Click on the photo above for links to the pages of this feature.

Many thanks to the members of the VFG Site Committee for their work in putting this feature together. I'm the co-chair along with Mary of The Vintage Merchant. The other members working on this were Amy of Viva Vintage Clothing, Cat of Club Vintage Fashions, Linn of Linn's Collection and Sharon of Living Doll Vintage—and thanks to all the members of the VFG for their great photos interpreting modern trends. Big thanks to VFG member Christine Anderson of yumyumphoto.com for the opening photo, inspiration for the design.

40s bag with stories to tell

2011-09-19T20:45:00.000-07:00

This pretty linen clutch purse (a recent find) has a big carved shell button on one side.

What's inside fascinates me even more: A mirror, hairpins, a blotting paper, 2 hat repair tickets, a milliner's card, two store cards with furniture and drapery notes jotted on their backs, one flower shop receipt and a pretty extravagant bar tab. The dates are all 1940 and 41.

Roses and cocktails...have you ever just liked a person from the contents of her bag?

9/11

2011-09-10T18:00:00.000-07:00

Darkness cannot drive out darkness; only light can do that. Hate cannot drive out hate; only love can do that. -Martin Luther King, Jr.

Spiegelman's iconic New Yorker cover from 9/24/01, and the twin lights memorial

On September 11 2001, I sold this raspberry suit to a woman working in the Pentagon. A few days later I heard from her, apologizing for taking so long to pay, but she'd been very distracted by events. I don't even know how she remembered the suit at all.

I remember the reaction of the world to 9/11, particularly the raw, on-the-street reaction of ordinary people all over the world. To them, we were still an ideal. We were Hollywood, Mickey Mouse and Mickey Mantle, T-birds and T-bone Hawkins, Coca Cola, Apple, Ella and Elvis, Martin King, The Statue of Liberty, great teeming New York, Ben Franklin and Thomas Jefferson, golden waves of grain, cowboys and Indians, the railroad, good public schools and libraries, Woody Allen, flight, baseball, front porches, the blues, purple mountain majesty, Mustang cars and horses, Helen Keller, Star Wars, Marilyn Monroe, Broadway, jazz, rock-n-roll, hip hop, sportswear, white hats and silver spurs, The Alamo, the circus, buffalo and Buffalo Bill, the Bill of Rights, beat poets, Janis Joplin, Thomas Edison and Henry Ford, the gramophone and the light bulb, Emily Dickinson, Walt Whitman, Ernest Hemingway, Mark Twain, Thoreau and Emerson, Jim Thorpe, Jesse Owens, Michael Jordan and Michael Jackson, Kennedy, FDR, Oprah, Bob Hope, Einstein, Abraham Lincoln, emancipation, Muhammad Ali, the Smithsonian, the moon. We were hope. We were, as John Gunther reminded us in the 1947 Inside U.S.A., the craziest, most dangerous, least stable, most spectacular, least grownup, and most powerful and magnificent nation ever known.

That was what was attacked, and what remains. That is what is worth preserving and improving upon forever.

Vintage noir

2011-09-01T16:35:00.000-07:00

It's a dark and stormy night in the big city.

Suddenly a woman screams!

Then there is the sound of running in the hall!

Where is the Maltese Falcon? And where did she get those killer shoes??

For the answers to these questions and more, who do you call? Who else but...

{click on image, sound up}

Dream Girls: Girl Groups of the Sixties

2011-08-29T20:50:00.000-07:00

Every week, the Vintage Fashion Guild has a fashion parade, where trade members show off their finds suited to the week's theme. I'm part of the committee that comes up with these themes, and last week's was one of my favorites. This is what I wrote for the VFG parade, Dream Girls.

Starting with Please Mr. Postman the big 1961 Motown crossover hit by The Marvelettes, girl groups ruled in the 1960s.

The Ronettes, Martha and The Vandellas, The Shirelles, The Cookies, The Velvelettes, The Shangri-Las, and of course The Supremes, brought coordinated images and harmonies to pop music.

Speaking of the The Supremes, veteran music critic Susan Whitall said of seeing the group on the Ed Sullivan Show, “they were just such beautiful girls in these beautiful gowns, singing the music that I was listening to all week on the radio.” They were among the first black musicians to appear on that influential show.

Ranging in style from elaborate evening gowns to tight leather pants, each 60s girl group had an image to uphold, always coordinating...and usually with big hair and thick eyeliner.

Martha and the Vandellas

The Ronettes

The Marvelettes

The Shangri-las

The Supremes

Some of my fellow VFGers’ choices for getting the girl group look...see all the choices in the VFG forums.

60s beaded gold lamé dress from Poppy's Vintage Clothing, 60s rhinestone and bead dangling earrings from The Spectrum, 60s checkerboard beaded & sequined top from Mags Rags, 60s gold lamé cape and pants set from Viva Vintage Clothing, 60s black chiffon and sequined party dress from Poppy's Vintage Clothing, 60s ice blue sheath with dangling beads from Mags Rags.

A little more inspiration, Etsy-style

And the best inspiration, the groups themselves

Read more about the real dream girls at Smithosonianmag.com

Interesting people, and future vintage 7

2011-08-24T20:06:00.000-07:00

Recently I've had the opportunity to talk, either in person or through email, with a couple of very interesting and creative women. They both design and make fashion, but with very different approaches and styles. Still, they've been sitting on the same bench in my thoughts.

One is Ronnie Ryno, the force behind Glamarita. Her creations very often involve the use of vintage neckties, and she strongly believe in reusing vintage materials in general. Ronnie has opened Glamarita within walking distance from my home, and I love the fun, creative, non-conformist, recycled and fabulous items in her shop, as I have loved her work online. (For more on Ronnie and Glamarita, visit glamarita.com.)

The other is Anastasia La Fey, who lives across the world from me, in Australia. I have come to know of Anastasia through her interest in vintage clothing. She is the designer and creator of exquisite and intricate, origami-inspired fashions. For more on Anastasia's work, visit her anastasialafey blog.

Very different styles of creation, but both women clearly have concepts that drive their work, as well as a flare for the theatrical. Both women specifically told me that they sew all their fashions, which absolutely boggles my mind. I would be honored to wear either one of these women's creations.

My recommendation? Find creators of future vintage wherever they may be—in your neighborhood or across the planet—and support them.

Search my blog for the 6 previous future vintage posts.

Famine relief

2011-08-17T13:38:00.000-07:00

It is back-to-school shopping time here in the northern hemisphere, and as I started pulling out fall vintage items, I realized just how unfair a world it can be. There are far too many hungry people even in a wealthy country like the US, but the photos and statistics from the famine in Somalia—especially its effect on children—are gut wrenching. Every child should have enough to eat. Every child should be able to go to school.

Right now, a portion of the proceeds from my eBay sales are going to help WFP USA.

The World Food Program USA (wfpusa.org) builds support in the United States for the World Food Program and other hunger relief operations. WFP has launched a major emergency operation to save lives in the drought-stricken Horn of Africa.

Please visit the denisebrain eBay shop to see what's listed right now, and find some great vintage items while helping famine relief. Or donate directly at The World Food Program USA website.

A few choices:

Future vintage 6: Fall 2011 runways

2011-08-12T21:31:00.000-07:00

I consider runway fashion to be in the (no pun...) running for future vintage, and here are some of my favorites from fall 2011 runways.

It goes without saying that Donna Karan has been creating some beautiful clothing. This fall is not terribly different from last fall, but I do think her work keeps solidifying her as a descendent of Bonnie Cashin, with wearable, beautiful, timeless design, and a woman's appreciation of wearing her clothes being top priorities.

Miuccia Prada at Miu Miu has created a collection that should be dear to most vintage fashion followers, inspired by WWII-era Paris. The outsized bird prints harken to the swallow returning to its home, a potent war-era symbol.

I love the over-sized clutch bags, and this 40s-style lily of the valley print, boldened as it is in size, and on a coat.

I never stop appreciating the creativity, cut, and handsome beauty of Gaultier's collections. This extravagantly-peplumed suit would simply be my favorite forever...at least until his next collection.

At Rodarte, Kate and Laura Mulleavy dipped into multiple visions of the American prairie, from gorgeously cut neo-Victorian coats and dresses, to flowing 70s-inspired prairie print long gowns, to a sparkling red reference to Dorothy's ruby slippers.

All the images are from style.com, where I go to wend my way through each collection. Do you do this, and if so, do you have favorites this fall? I watch to see what the future of vintage holds, along with what vintage clothing has done to inspire modern designers, yet I'm often—but not always—most interested in what looks most vintage. If you're a vintage fashion follower, do you notice modern runway fashion? Does it appeal to you especially if it appears vintage-inspired?

A model? Me??

2011-08-06T13:43:00.000-07:00

Not long ago I received the great honor of being Lulu's Pick for Best Vintage Model.

It's hard for me to think of myself as a model...I'm not supremely young and supremely thin, and I'm not beautiful, any more than anyone else. I started my vintage business showing the items on myself partly to distinguish myself from other sellers (I don't think there were other sellers showing their items on people at the time I started), and partly to say if I can do this, so can you.

I kept hearing people say that vintage was fine for others, but they couldn't do it themselves as much as they'd like to. I thought if a more-or-less average person could be seen wearing vintage clothing, it might help people consider. I love wearing vintage clothing, and I wanted to express that in my photos. I consider what I do a sort of act, but it's one I do sincerely.

I collect and study photos taken during my favorite time in fashion, ca. 1935-75, and I am inspired by the happy- healthy- interesting-looking women who modeled. Between their rare talents and the talents of great photographers, there is a world of inspiration.

I particularly like photos that have motion and/or tell a story. Richard Avedon and Louise Dahl-Wolfe took my favorite photos so far, and I'd have to say Suzy Parker is my favorite model, although there are so many great choices.

Carmen dell’Orefice, photo by Richard Avedon

Lauren Hutton, photo by Richard Avedon

Mary Jane Russell, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Mary Sykes, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Naomi Sims, photographer unknown

Suzy Parker, photo by Louise Dahl-Wolfe

Suzy Parker and Robin Tattersall, photo by Richard Avedon

Recently, I bought several catalogues from the late 50s to early 60s and frankly, this is really more what I'm capable of trying to emulate...just don't ask for a suit for $6.97!

One of the best things I've ever seen written about my modeling was “she seems to invite everyone else in for the fun, instead of trying to be cooler than her buyers.” Another: “One can easily put herself in place of Denisebrain and imagine stepping out on the town.”

Exactly what I hope for.

I'm off to see the wizard! Care to join me?

2011-08-01T16:25:00.001-07:00

My July theme is up!

{click on image to view...and sound up!}

Clothing of 1939: A further sampling from The Met Museum

2011-07-23T16:36:00.000-07:00

I’m enamored with fashion from 1939, as you can tell if you have read my blog for a few months. Here are few more items dated 1939 from The Costume Institute at The Metropolitan Museum.

Silk dress, Madeleine Vionnet

Silk and metallic dress, Madeleine Vionnet

Silk velvet jacket, Madame Grès (Alix Barton)

Silk dress “Le Gaulois,” Elizabeth Hawes

Silk dress “The Moonstone,” Elizabeth Hawes

Clay and metal sunglasses, Marcel Rochas

Silk dress “La Sirène,” Charles James

Search 1939 on this blog to see some other great pieces from that great year in fashion.

Future vintage 5: Hatmakers of Etsy

2011-07-20T21:35:00.000-07:00

Etsy is a wonderland of handmade creation, and it absolutely stands to reason that a singular creation by a singular artisan is a candidate for future vintage.

Hats seem to be thriving on Etsy, and two milliners who have caught my eye are ArturoRios and yellowfield7.

Here is just a small sampling of their exciting, beautifully designed and photographed creations. Click on the photos to be taken to the Etsy listings.

Search Future Vintage on this blog for the four previous installments in this series, and please let me know if you have any suggestions for Future Vintage (1. well designed, 2. well made, 3. created by reasonably-paid people working in safe, humane conditions).

Innovative clothing of 1939: Elsa Schiaparelli

2011-07-16T09:00:00.000-07:00

In my occasional series on clothing of 1939, I am showing some items that surprise me at their modernity. See Can you name the vintages? for the work of some designers that seems astonishingly new to this day. In previous blogs I showed some ca. 1939 work by Steven Arpad and by Claire McCardell. One of the most interesting designers just prior to WWII is undoubtedly Elsa Schiaparelli. Here are a few of the Metropolitan Museum's Schiaparellis, dated 1939.

Wool and silk suit

Wool and silk coat

Silk evening blouse

Silk evening pumps

Silk evening ensemble

Cotton seed packet dress

Music dress and gloves manufactured by the House of Lesage

Silk evening dress

In the mid to late 30s, Schiaparelli collaborated with Jean Cocteau and Salvador Dali to create some now iconic surrealist fashions...well worth a blog all their own.

Future vintage 4: Toms Shoes & Eyewear

2011-07-11T08:00:00.000-07:00

By now most of you have heard of the shoe company that gives a pair of shoes to a child in need for each pair of shoes bought. Toms Shoes has had this One for One program long enough to have given away its millionth pair of shoes in September 2010.

Toms started out with a very simple—but not without interesting detail—shoe, and it is being made still.

I love it in this almost balletic ivory grosgrain incarnation:

The shoes for selling are made in China, but according to the website “We require that the factories operate under sound labor conditions, pay fair wages and follow local labor standards. A code of conduct is signed by all factories. Our production staff routinely visits these factories to make sure they are maintaining these working standards. We also have third parties audit the factories at least once a year to ensure they adhere to proper labor regulations.”

Toms shoes for giving are made in Argentina and Ethiopia. I sincerely wish that one day these same places could made the shoes for us to purchase.

Toms new eyewear is made in Italy. Again, each sale will have a one-to-one impact, with eye care being the focus, including eye surgery to restore sight. (See Toms page for more on the purpose of this new venture.) Currently there are three styles for women, two for men, all classics with a twist—a hand-painted striped temple. You can even try the glasses on, with a simple upload of your own photo.

For me, positive impact is good business practice, and just...right. I would consider it a badge of honor to wear Toms now and into the future, making it a good choice for Future Vintage.

Please do tell if you have any suggestions for this series on Future Vintage (1. well designed, 2. well made, 3. created by reasonably-paid people working in safe, humane conditions). See my previous Future Vintage posts featuring Marimekko, Swedish Hasbeens, and Ghanaian Batik and Breton Nautical.

I thank you, the manatees thank you

2011-07-08T17:00:00.000-07:00

Thanks to you and your purchases, I've reached my goal of making $500 for the Save the Manatee Club. Anyone who knows me well knows I am very concerned for these endangered animals, and when I received an urgent plea from the Save the Manatee Club about a month ago, I decided to set aside a portion of my earnings from denisebrain.com.

The goal has been reached, and the manatees will have a little more support from denisebrain...and my wonderful customers!

Thank you so much!

Further contributions will always be appreciated and needed at the Save the Manatee Club, guaranteed.

Innovative clothing of 1939: Claire McCardell

2011-07-06T10:00:00.000-07:00

In my occasional series on clothing of 1939, I am showing some items that surprise me at their modernity. See Can you name the vintages? for the work of some designers that seems astonishingly new today. The shoes and shoe prototypes of Steven Arpad came first.

Next, a strikingly simple long red cotton coat. It was designed by Claire McCardell in 1939-40 and meant to pair with this plaid silk dress.

I love Claire McCardell and counted the reasons why in a previous blog (Claire McCardell, always new). Here are some more of her 1939 items found in the Metropolitan Museum Collection Database.

Wool dress and coat by McCardell for Townley Frocks

Evening dress of silk and wool by McCardell for Townley Frocks

Wool evening dress by McCardell 1939-40

Silk evening dress by McCardell for Hattie Carnegie, 1939

These rayon lounging pajamas are McCardell's work too, dated 1938.

If you want to see the work of McCardell housed at the Metropolitan Museum, visit their collection database. No matter what year you search, McCardell seems modern.

Honk if you love vintage!

2011-07-04T13:20:00.000-07:00

My latest theme is up...how about taking it for a spin?

{click on image to view...and sound up!}

Future vintage 3: Ghanaian Batik, Breton Nautical

2011-07-03T07:00:00.000-07:00

When I was about 13, there was a book of catalogs from around the world called The Catalog of Catalogs. I was enchanted by this book beyond reason, and saved enough money to order a handful of the clothing catalogs. I didn't have the money to purchase the items themselves but I was inspired by the clothes from around the globe.

Finding clothing made where it should be made is one way to find Future Vintage. Just to note two examples, there are these colorful batik pieces by Global Mamas (Ghana), sold through tradeforchange.com.

Another page I've bookmarked is brittanyboutique.com, purveyor of Breton-made peacoats, sailor shirts, berets and other items.

Probably my favorite catalog in The Catalog of Catalogs was from Clothkits, and I was delighted to see this company is still in existence decades after I received my catalog. The concept behind this UK company is that you receive beautifully printed cotton and everything else you need to sew a particular item. The distinct prints make the items covetable, and your participation may be the best part of all.

Again, please let me know if you have any suggestions for this series on Future Vintage (1. well designed, 2. well made, 3. created by reasonably-paid people working in safe, humane conditions). See my previous Future Vintage posts featuring Marimekko and Swedish Hasbeens.

Innovative clothing of 1939: Steven Arpad

2011-06-27T19:15:00.000-07:00

Evening shoes, House of Balenciaga, Steven Arpad designer

A month ago I started a small exploration of fashion in 1939 (A great year in clothing; 1939 continued). I am often surprised by the innovation that took place that year. It seems ahead of its time.

A few days ago I posted a few 1939 clothing examples from the The Costume Institute of the Metropolitan Museum Collection Database. Louise was right, the items look much more modern than they are, including this shoe prototype by the French designer Steven Arpad.

Among the other Arpads dated 1939 in the collection:

These were manufactured by Delman

Search Steven Arpad at The Met Museum website to see all 74 of the items in this group (very worthwhile!).

Another vintage convergence

2011-06-27T10:32:00.000-07:00

The latest vintage convergence, a pair of Jer Marai pajamas that I had photographed and ready to list showed up on a vintage ad card at the website CardCow.com:

See the “Gad About Pajama” (so 60s!) listed here...and see my previous convergences here.

Can you name the vintages?

2011-06-23T16:48:00.000-07:00

What years were these items made?

(What looks like a heel on this shoe is a actually a display stand)

Future vintage 2: Swedish Hasbeens

2011-06-21T10:33:00.000-07:00

My next candidate for Future Vintage is Swedish Hasbeens. I'm a fan of clogs, and the colorful clog-inspired creations of this Swedish company had me at hello.

According to the company website, the shoes are handcrafted by artisans in a traditional way in small factories that have made shoes for decades. They claim that the quality is such that the shoes will last for future generations. “Revolutions bring change and we all feel the time has come. The time to throw away the plastic chrome tanned shoes with too much bling-bling and really bad quality. People across the world are demanding quality, natural materials that age great and that our grandkids can wear. Bring on the revolution!” Hyperbole? Perhaps, but their heart is in the right place.

Some of the current offerings (and yes, they do make more traditional and classic colors and styles, but I find these bright models even more lovable):

Please let me know of companies that you believe meet my standards for future vintage: 1. well designed, 2. well made, 3. created by reasonably-paid people working in safe, humane conditions.

Future vintage 1: Marimekko

2011-06-17T18:41:00.000-07:00

With an awful lot of cheaply made, poor fitting and/or badly designed clothing available now, I do sometimes wonder what the future's idea of vintage clothing will be. What other than couture fashion will be worth having from the year 2011? Will clothes even make it long enough to be worn in 2031?

I've decided to search out clothing that meets my idea of really worthwhile: 1. well designed, 2. well made, 3. created by reasonably-paid people working in safe, humane conditions.

A label known to vintage collectors is Marimekko, a Finnish company in existence since 1951. Marimekko has always been known for its bright modern prints and clean-lined clothing, and I'm delighted to see that the current designers have carried on these traditions.

Responding to my request for information about the manufacture of Marimekko's clothing, the Communications Coordinator Minttu Kuoppala wrote that Finland is responsible for 36%; more than 80% is manufactured in the EU. Wherever the clothing is made (and some is made in developing countries) responsible sourcing is part of the company's business strategy.

New clothing by Marimekko has my vote for Future Vintage!

Do you have any suggestions for this series? Any favorite labels that meet my 3 requirements? Any individuals making clothing that you believe has a great future as well as a great present?

For the manatees

2011-06-11T13:46:00.000-07:00

A reminder: 25% of every sale in all my selling venues at denisebrain.com is now benefiting the Save the Manatee Club. My goal is to raise $500 to help with the overwhelming needs of the organization.

Perhaps I can tempt you with this 30s dress with its charming bow print?
or these 50s Delman sandals in unused condition
or this 50s beaded cashmere cardigan
or this 50s iridescent taffeta dress and jacket
There are nearly 200 items for sale in my shops, so drop by and see what's in store! Your purchase will be appreciated even more than usual...by the manatees and me!

Vintage convergence

2011-06-09T23:12:00.000-07:00

My husband showed me this Bazaar cover from February 1952...one of his favorite Brodovitch designs, and I said Hey, I know that dress! It was labeled Harvey Berin designed by Karen Stark. I sold it some years ago. I am pleased that I had the same basic instinct in shooting this angle.

And while I'm at it, an alert reader found this Lilli Ann ad, matching a jacket I had in my web store...

Save the manatees...they need us more than ever

2011-06-07T21:28:00.000-07:00

I just received an impassioned plea from the Save the Manatee Club. Although it was not put in so many words, it appears that new Florida Governor Rick Scott is leaving an opening for self-interested concerns to downlist the manatee from endangered to threatened, or to even be removed from the protections of the Endangered Species Act altogether, at the federal level, despite the fact that 767 manatees were known to have perished last year, which is more than twice the 5-year average. In the past two years there have been many manatee deaths from boating collisions and from cold stress. We still don't know what effect the oil spill will have on manatees and the ecosystem in which they live. Manatees are only becoming more endangered, and only need more of our help to survive.

The manatee's situation is dire. Speed boating's situation is not dire. Can't we bend to save a species that has made it 60 million years so far?

I had planned to do something later in the summer for manatees, but instead I will start a push to help answer the Save the Manatee plea for assistance right away. If you know me at all you know I can't refuse manatees! Starting tomorrow, 25% of my proceeds will go to Save the Manatee Club. If the listings are on eBay, the listing will show the cause. I will also donate 25% of sales from my Etsy stores and from my website. My goal is to make $500, however long it might take.

Thank you for your help!

I'm a winner thanks to you!

2011-06-06T19:22:00.000-07:00

It's champagne cork popping time—Denisebrain is among Lulu's Vintage Top Ten People's Choice Award winners for 2011! Check out the great company I keep!

Many thanks to Lulu for holding this contest and to all who voted for my website. I've said it before and I'll say it again...I have the best customers!

Picture yourself in vintage

2011-06-01T07:00:00.000-07:00

Get out your old Brownie Hawkeye, Rollei B35, Argus C3, Kodak Instamatic, or Polaroid One-Step and shoot a vintage shot...June's a great month for it! Get in the mood with my latest theme:

{click on image}

Many thanks to the inspiration I get from using BeFunky.com photo effects!

Shoe love, courtesy of 1940s Vogue

2011-05-27T18:08:00.001-07:00

Sigh! I need a new pair of day-to-day shoes, and I wish these were among my choices!

1939 continued

2011-05-18T19:24:00.000-07:00

With the late 30s on my mind I was looking through my inventory for items to offer this week and I suddenly recalled having this venerable beauty:

Listed now here

With its cotton gauze fabric, Deco-style wavy stripes, and flowing skirt, this dress is a wonderful example of its era.

Care to play Lisa Fonssagrives and model the dress on the Eiffel Tower? (Please hold on tight...)

A great year in clothing

2011-05-13T10:05:00.000-07:00

Quick, when was this photo taken?

If at first glance you thought 1970s, I'm right there with you. The actual date is 1939, it's a slip dress designed by Charles Armour. The dress was made of gingham, and worn with an organdy jacket.

The photo, found in New York Fashion: The Evolution of American Style, sent me looking for clothing from 1939, especially evening dresses of daywear fabrics like cotton and wool, or daywear prints like stripes and plaids.

Further inspiration:

Lisa Fonssagrives on the Eiffel Tower by Erwin Blumenfeld, 1939, found online at with a cherry on top

This magnificent 1930s striped dress can be found at Sheila Cook Textiles

I love this cotton 30s lace gown found at Poppy's Vintage Clothing

You could make your own from a 1939 reproduction pattern found at Eva Dress:

and maybe a vintage inspired plaid

There is so much more to love about the year 1939 in clothing, from trouser dressing to surrealism, and I hope to explore the year more in future posts.

2011-05-09T21:01:00.000-07:00

Lulu of Lulu's Vintage holds an annual contest for the public's favorite vintage clothing websites, and the time is now (through May 31) to vote for your top 10 favorites!

I would be honored if one of your favorites was denisebrain!

Petal pusher!

2011-05-02T08:25:00.000-07:00

I'm pushing petals this month! I hope you don't mind. :)

Please visit my latest theme by clicking the image, and then watch for flowery vintage all May at denisebrain.com.

Weddings, even if not royal

2011-04-29T10:28:00.000-07:00

I love weddings, especially ones that are small, quirky and heartfelt. I have the feeling I'd enjoy my buyers’ weddings, because I've noticed that they like alternative wedding wear, not so much standard wedding gowns. I do have vintage wedding gowns, but like best to show items that could be worn at a wedding, or at other times.

60s Vintage Cream Ottoman Rib Shift Dress

70s Vintage Long White Knit Dress with Rhinestones

60s Vintage Cream Knit Sheath Dress

50s Vintage Organza & Pearly Beads Bridal Fascinator

60s Vintage Simple, Elegant Jackie Wedding Dress

60s Vintage Cream Chinchilla Cloth Wool Coat

60s Vintage Peck & Peck White Linen Sheath Dress

50s Vintage Strapless White/Cream Lace Formal Dress

50s Vintage Cream Airy Wool Knit Bolero

Vintage Embroidered Sheer Ivory Skirt or Over-Skirt

60s Vintage Mod White Textured Knit Belted Shift Dress

50s Vintage White Fluffy Knit Bolero Sweater Jacket

That helps cover the “something old,” and here's a little something blue.

70s Vintage Anne Klein Aqua Silk Oblong Scarf (Unused)

Vintage Light Blue Beads & Raffia Handbag Made in Italy

My heart goes out

2011-04-29T08:39:00.000-07:00

An Etsy treasury I made under my materialgirlbags name. I can't even fathom the devastation in The South.

Earth Day 1970, and what you might have worn

2011-04-21T22:12:00.000-07:00

On April 22, 1970, with a growing concern for the degradation of the natural world already sweeping the country, Wisconsin senator Gaylord Nelson's idea of a teach-in for the environment grew into Earth Day, a day for understanding the environmental issues confronting the planet.

Unofficial Earth Day flag, by John McConnell: the Blue Marble (NASA photo) on a blue field

According to the Wikipedia article on Earth Day, over 20 million people participated in the first year, and Earth Day is now observed on April 22 each year by more than 500 million people and several national governments in 175 countries.

Approximately 7,000 people gather on Independence Mall in Philadelphia on the first Earth Day (photo from nationalgeographic.com)

Manhattan filled with pedestrians for a vehicle-less 2 hours on the first Earth Day (photo from NYDailyNews.com)

One of the embroidery patterns from a 1970-71 McCall's Needlework & Crafts magazine

Looking back to 1970 this week, I am featuring vintage items that date from 1970 and a few years before or after.

Sheer butterfly caftan

Greek-made macrame sandals

Crinkled gauze top

Lilly Pulitzer flower, fruit and vegetable-print dress

Hot pink and tan Darwin fish wrap skirt

Big owl pendant with black glass eyes

Mexican hand-embroidered cotton dress

April 22 is also the day I started denisebrain, one dozen years ago today. I think this even more today: Vintage clothing is recycled clothing and helps the Earth...in style!

Follow-up: Homage to Shaheen

2011-04-11T17:10:00.000-07:00

Several have let me know that it wasn't cricket to mention the dress I was wearing to the Shaheen exhibit and then not show it, so I took a photo of the dress today:

I've added this dress to my Flickr set of the Shaheens I've had and currently have, and I'm always surprised at the variety when I look at these! {click the image to see these in greater detail}

An homage to Alfred Shaheen

2011-04-10T14:00:00.000-07:00

Opening this past week at Washington State University's Museum of Anthropology, Hawaii’s Alfred Shaheen: Fabric to Fashion is a must-see glimpse at the work of one of America's greatest textile designers and innovators.

A few of the stunning bold flower and leaf prints on display

The exhibit was curated by Linda Arthur Bradley, a scholar of Hawaiian textiles and professor in WSU's Apparel Merchandising, Design and Textiles Department, co-curated by Mary Collins of WSU's Anthropology Department, and Deborah Corsini of the San Jose Museum of Quilts and Textiles. A very interesting and informative booklet accompanies the exhibit.

On display are a number of items collected by Shaheen's daughter, Camille Shaheen-Tunberg, and it was my great privilege to have the chance to meet her and her husband, the artist and sculptor Bill Tunberg, at the opening of the exhibit. I have heard that Alfred Shaheen was a warm and gracious person, and this family trait has certainly been passed on.

It was a treat to hear details of the couple's projects, information about the items on display, and small anecdotes about Alfred Shaheen and his work that I probably would never hear anywhere else. One example: Although you can't see it in my photo (it was a cold day and I needed to wear a coat), I was wearing a 1960s Shaheen dress with a fan, lace and instrument print. Camille said that her father sometimes mixed screen prints, and that this dress displays one of those mixtures. I'm so glad I chose to wear this one, and find out about its origin!

Me, trying to capture some of the sights

One group of Aloha shirts, each one a wearable work of art

An array of prints, and covetable garment construction

I love this octopus and fish print! The shirt is on display along with a matching two-piece swim/play suit

Indian influence by way of a paisley border print

Camille Shaheen-Tunberg and her husband Bill Tunberg

By Bill Tunberg, detail of an impressive portrait of an impressive creator

The exhibit is open 10-4 through May 3, and then through June 30 (while WSU is between terms) by appointment. It is free and open to the public. For more information and photos, see the WSU Today press release.

No fooling: think pink

2011-04-01T09:15:00.000-07:00

Little me, in pink as usual

I'm sure you would never know from looking at this blog, my store, my business card, etc., that I love the color pink! ; )

So why didn't I think of this before?! Please visit my latest theme [click on image]:

...and watch for lots of great pink vintage finds in the upcoming weeks.

If you don't already know my inspiration for these images, have a look at this favorite scene from Funny Face:

The Triangle Factory Fire at 100

2011-03-25T06:00:00.000-07:00

One young victim's grave. The Hebrew Free Burial Association

Today is the 100th anniversary of one of the most significant events in garment-making and labor history.

On Saturday, March 25, 1911, near quitting time, a fire broke out on the 8th floor of New York City's Triangle Waist Company and quickly spread to the 9th and 10th floors. Within minutes 146 of the 500 employees had died in the blaze. The seamstresses—mostly young women who had recently immigrated to the US—were trapped, locked inside by the management. Numerous safety violations made their rescue impossible. The women who didn't burn alive jumped to their deaths, to the shock of the crowd on the street.

Detail, History of the Needlecraft Industry (1938), by Ernest Fiene, High School of Fashion and Industry. A mural commissioned by the International Ladies Garment Workers Union (ILGWU). From the New Deal Network

The horror of the tragedy casts a shadow even to this day.

{See WNYC News Remembering the Triangle Shirtwaist Fire, 100 Years Later for the many events taking place in New York this year in memory of the tragedy.}

After the fire, public sentiment strongly favored increased safety standards and humane working conditions, and workers flocked to strengthening unions. Progress was made, much due to that terrible March day.

{Must see: Kheel Center for Labor-Management Documentation and Archives at Cornell University's Triangle Shirtwaist Factory Fire Website}

Shirtwaists, PBS

From the Cornell exhibit:

This incident has had great significance to this day because it highlights the inhumane working conditions to which industrial workers can be subjected. To many, its horrors epitomize the extremes of industrialism.

The tragedy still dwells in the collective memory of the nation and of the international labor movement. The victims of the tragedy are still celebrated as martyrs at the hands of industrial greed.

Period editorial cartoon

On March 25 I always sorrowfully remember the young workers. I strongly believe that a century later we should not be debating the importance of organized labor.

Spring has arrived at the Vintage Fashion Guild!

2011-03-23T07:27:00.000-07:00

Have you ever noticed how often new fashions are inspired by vintage style? The VFG notices, and showcases members’ items that illustrate the vintage inspirations for modern looks.

This spring we’ve cheered a continuing love affair with fit-and-flare, and the 1970s could not be more back. Line up some vintage stripes for a graphically current look, and look right in white from all eras.

{Click to see the lineup}

Many thanks to the members of the VFG Site Committee for their work in putting this feature together. I'm the co-chair along with Mary of The Vintage Merchant. The other members working on this were Debbie of Catseye Vintage, Linn of Linn's Collection and Sharon of Living Doll Vintage—and thanks to all the members of the VFG for their great photos interpreting modern trends.

Continuing help for Japan

2011-03-18T22:12:00.000-07:00

Thank you for all who have bid and bought my eBay auctions this past week, with proceeds going to help Japan. All my eBay listings this week again will benefit Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund - a GlobalGiving Project.

Some choices:

40s blossoming cherry tree print dress

50s beaded lambswool/angora sweater and artful boat print skirt

60s enameled metal flower pin and earrings, with tags

60s full-skirt dress with pastel flowers

60s brilliantly-colored linen shift dress

Ending tomorrow is the auction for this 50s atomic fruit print skirt...one the best prints I've seen!

There are so many eBay sellers contributing a portion of their sales to Japan disaster relief that it's hard to decide where to begin. You could start by seeing the listings for GlobalGiving, and explore from there.

On a more personal note, I have read some comments on Twitter and Facebook about how Japan isn't asking for help, and/or doesn't need help.

I toured Japan with a music group in the mid 90s, and we were treated with incredible generosity and kindness. I was given armloads of flowers, and served meals more extravagant than an average Japanese person might ever be served in his lifetime. I was moved and humbled by my experience in Japan–by the people, the culture, the natural beauty and the history.

My heart has been aching at the news coverage following the earthquake, tsunami and unfolding nuclear disaster in Japan, and if there is any generosity I can show the people of Japan, I will show it, whatever skeptics might say.

Photos from my trip to Japan

Japan relief

2011-03-12T13:16:00.000-08:00

My heart goes out to Japan, and all effected by the massive earthquake and tsunami.

Right now, 25% of my eBay sales are going to The Japan Earthquake and Tsunami Relief Fund at GlobalGiving.org.

My eBay auctions can be found here: denisebrain on eBay

A list of relief organizations and what they are doing can be found here: How to Help Japan

Paper crane lamp found on weheartit

Paper dolls and a prize from a doll

2011-03-10T19:05:00.000-08:00

First: May I tempt you?

You may have seen my monthly theme, Doll Up in Vintage, well I have seven fabulous vintage fashion paper doll books with iconic designs of the 1940s, 50s and 60s, and the first seven buyers of $50 or more from any of my stores will receive one of these cool books! (Shop my stores by visiting denisebrain.com.)

Update 3/17/11: 3 left!
Update 3/25/11: all gone!

Second: A few days ago I received a prize from a living doll, Lulu of Lulu's Vintage fame.

I won her blog giveaway pop & psychedelia collection, and I am loving these fabulous 60s brights! She sent me a scarf, a flower pin, a jewelry roll (with a print which is very similar to a half slip I own), an apron and a vintage advertisement, all splendidly bright. I look like a psychedelic housewife...which is pretty close to the true me! Thank you Lulu, you are so generous and cool!

The ad reads "A-hunting we will go...in man-trapping Sportmaker separates"...Hmm, perhaps a couple years before Women's Lib took hold?